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Visitors Arrive

Two weeks have passed and the first of my guests started to arrive!!! I was so excited to begin to share the sites, sounds, smells and taste of Italy.

I have moved from Florence to Giardino Incantato, a lovely Tuscan home I found through Airbnb. It is an idyllic setting and perfect to entertain guests and leverage as a home base in Tuscany.

My Tuscan Home

My Tuscan Home

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Rachael, my daughter arrived mid week and we had an awesome day out in Florence on her first day. The weather was amazing, the sky perfect ( especially for picture taking)  and our stop for a Caffe Macchiato and Cappuccino and visits to imagethe  Mercato Centrale ensured several chances to smell and taste the wonderful Italian cuisine.

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It turns out the world is indeed very small, as walking along the River Arno we ran into a KPMG partner from Saskatoon, Canada, Tom Robinson and his partner Suzanne. It turns out he too retired and was having a tour through Italy. We shared wine and dinner and exchanged stories…. What a chance meeting???

The following day we maneuvered our way into the city centre to Stazione  Santa Maria Novellato pick up Mary Lou and Virginia who arrived by train from Rome. Perhaps at a later time I will do a blog on the challenges of driving in Italy and navigating Florence. I think I and several of my guests have several more grey hairs after our weekend driving expeditions. But we tried not to let it get in the way of our enjoyment.

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After a glass of wine in our lovely garden, we headed off the first evening to Tre Pini  http://www.ristoranteitrepini.it/Welcome.html a  restaurantnearby.. we had a lovely wine and Tuscan food…although our favorite item on the menu was the pizza we shared as a starter..pizza in italy is truly something else!!

Touring Tuscany

Saturday was dedicated to roaming the Chianti region…visits to towns, to  enotecha’s to taste and buy wine, a lunch stop to relax and drink more wine and indulge in a spectacular sharing platter.

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Our favorite town was the medieval hillside town of San Gimignano.

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San Gimignano is a small walled medieval hill town in the province of Siena, Tuscany. I remembered it as one of the prettiest Tuscan towns from an earlier trip to Italy – I have a lovely picture of its unforgettable skyline in my home… five towers in the medieval style …examples of both Romanesque and Gothic architecture. The town built from the 12th to 15th centuries is encircled by three walls and has four town squares. It is a charm to walk within and around the walls encircling the town with its amazing viewpoints into the valley below

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And of course our favorite past time was tasting and buying wine….Mary Lou and Virginia managed to find some amazing bottles of wine, typical to the region, both from the Italian grape sangiovese and the super Tuscan variety. Another blog will be dedicated to the wines we have enjoyed. image

imageWe returned to our Tuscan home and collectively prepared our ‘Italian Tuscan Thanksgiving dinner’. Bruscetta, pasta and Pollo all’arrabbiata.

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Having toured the food stalls and markets of Florence we were off to our second half of the adventure. In very short order we were transported to the hilly outskirts of Florence and entered the beautiful property of our host. A late summer garden, outdoor pizza oven, tables for eating ‘al fresco’ and an amazing kitchen space both for group cooking awaited us. The site was amazingly designed to fit the purpose.. John you would have loved it. We donned our chef aprons and were ready our Tuscan Cooking Experience

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Soon under the careful guidance of our master chef, Carmela ( I am hoping I got the name right) a woman who has been feeding her family home cooked meals, singing and dancing her way through the kitchen.. She spoke Italian— we all caught what we could from her effective full body descriptions of what we were to do—but not to worry, Elisa was on hand to translate her instructions.

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We began by preparing bruschetta….which is pronounced with a hard C not a ch sound as so many of us have come to do in North America. The fresh tomatoes, basil, garlic and bread purchased that morning were soon prepped. Bread on the outdoor pizza oven/barbecue and soon we are tasting the first results of our journey into Tuscan food.

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It was quickly established that this group loved a nice ‘vino’, both to accompany the food as well as to enhance the cooking experience and so the wine began to flow…

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Next was group prep for the ‘bolognese sauce’ –interesting very few herbs in this sauce, simply garlic, onion, celery and carrot finely chopped, hamburger meat, wine and tomato sauce. Trick of course is to let it simmer on the stove for several hours.

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While the sauce bubbled away, we received a demo in how to make pasta … really had no idea it was so easy. Shortly the whole class was making their own pasta.. Carmella demo’ed how to take pasta and turn it into all the forms of pasta we simply buy in bags at the store.. today we made tagliattelle to go along with our ‘Bolognese’. But now we knew how to make agnolotti, cannelloni, capellini fettucini, etc. It turned out making a pasta serving for one, was fun and quick..I did wonder how long one would have to work to prep Pasta for a family of 6 however…..so it is likely I will continue by pattern of buying fresh pasta at the local grocers…which here in Italy….is really good!!!!

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Pasta ready we moved outside to be joined by our second Tuscan chef. She is a pizza specialist and works in a Firenze pizzeria. She had prepped the pizza dough the previous night..apparently she preps hundreds of small pizza dough balls for her work at the pizzeria. We were paired off and set to it to create our personal pizza’s ..fresh tomato sauce, mozzarella al fiori, basil, ham, artichokes.. and of course Olive Oil to top it off. While we did not duplicate our chefs skill in pizza throwing, we successfully baked our pizzas in the 800 degree wood fired out door pizza oven..pizzas were done in a minute and 20 seconds… HOT OVEN is the trick clearly!!!! And then we ate them sitting outside taking in the stunning country side.

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So, antipasti and pizza consumed, ‘Primi’ course bubbling  (sauce)  and drying (pasta), it was time to turn our attention to the ‘secondi’ which was to be the lovely pork tenderloin we had purchased at the Mercato Centrale and the ‘contorni’ (vegetable side dish) in our case roast potatoes. The tenderloin had been cut to specifications by the butcher. The meat had been removed from the bone and then the bone section reattached with kitchen string. The bone of course adds lovely flavour but having it removed in advance eases the carving when the meat is complete. Simple herbs ( garlic, rosemary and sage ( I think) were rubbed onto the meat. The potatoes were salted ( heavily). Both of these dishes again  received a  healthy dose of olive oil, drizzled of course.. it is note worthy that this is a staple for all food prep in Italy. According to Carmela very healthy and much better than butter… I decided that olive oil must be a diet food in Italy.

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And as our roast was cooking we were given a final lesson in preparation of ‘dolce’ –as a group we prepped Tiramisu and then prepared our individual dish of same. We also collected whipped up some gelato..while all dishes here to had benefited from a liberal doses of Olive Oil… the ‘dolce’ had healthy doses of Liquor.. marsala wine in the tiramisu and amaretto in the gelato!!!!

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So having completed our lessons, all the while enjoying the chianti and the company,  we moved outside to enjoy our Tuscan dinner ‘alfresco’.

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Elisa had warned us in the morning that we would have a fulsome Tuscan meal…and indeed that was certainly the case!! A good thing none of us had dinner reservations that evening.. I doubt any of us could have consumed another bite.

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Carmela topped off the evening by awarding us all our personal Tuscan Chef School Certificates. What an awesome experience..highly recommended should you come to Florence.

Florence Food Tour

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As many of you know, Italy and Tuscany in particular is known for its love of food and great cuisine. This is very evident in its food markets and shops, big and small, which display local seasonal food to its plethora of  eateries, whether they are called trattoria, osteria, ristorante, birreria, spaghetteria, pizzeria, tavola calda, rosticcerria, café, taverna—-seriously a bewildering series of names —not sure what the difference is.. what is consistent, is a love of good food.

So with this awareness of Tuscany, I had decided to seek out a cooking class. The website offered a lot of choices…eventually I landed on a tour offered by Walkabout Tours Florence https://www.walkaboutflorence.com/ . The tour offered a food tour through old Florence followed by a cooking lesion at a nearby Tuscan Farm House.

IMG_9612What a treat this turned out to be!!!! At 10 am on a Friday morning, 15 people met at the appointed meeting place. We met Elisa, our food and tour guide. My group consisted of visitors from Perth and Sydney Australia, Hong Kong, several cities across the USA (Denver, New Jersey, Virginia, South Carolina to name just a few), ranging in age from 20 to 60+. The group was friendly and eager for a great experience and Elisa was determined to give it to us.

IMG_9630Having collected we were off, following Elisa to discover Florence’s historical food market, visit the local baker, butchers and market stalls. Knowledgeable, Elisa shared with us a great deal of  Florentine ‘food history’ , all while conversing with the local sellers as we purchased the ingredients that we would later need in our cooking class. On the journey Elisa and Frank ( one of my fellow travelers) loaded up food bags with local tomatoes, olives, mozzarella, pork loin, ground meat.

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On the way, we learned that Florence was an important city in the wool trade in the middle ages given its location on the Arno River. Florentine merchants develop the first coin the Florin and the first bills of exchange –this enabled the merchants to pay debts without transporting cash and of course extend credit—hence the establishment of a robust banking system in Florence.

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We learned that salt, used to preserve food in the days prior to refrigeration was also a ‘golden’ commodity and extremely expensive. The bread of Florence is not salted—yes it is quickly one of the things you notice, although I did not immediately twig onto that it tasted different because there is no salt in it.  There are two stories as to why. The first is that salt was so heavily taxed, the people of Florence couldn’t afford to add it to their food and started to make unsalted bread and continue to do so to this day. The second story is that in the 12th century, Florence and Pisa were rival cities. The Pisan army blocked shipments of salt reaching Florence to force a surrender to Pisa. Florentines simply eliminated salt from their cooking and did not surrender. According to Elisa, a rivalry still exists today between the Florentines and Pisans.

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IMG_9613We were introduced to the methods of selling wine in early Florence. The picture here is of Elisa telling us the history of the ‘wine tabernacle’. This small opening that you see ( most today are closed off, as the one in the picture) was just the right size for a bottle of wine to fit through. Locals would come to these small wine tabernacles- holes in the wall, and purchase their wine directly from the seller. A curious wine vending approach only found in Florence—they are called ‘tabernacle’ because they have a similar appearance to religious tabernacles also found on many a street corner. Deb a fellow traveller rather wished she could still purchase a bottle today.IMG_9614

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A final stop was to a typical Florence coffee shop for our morning coffee. We were instructed in the varying forms of Italian Coffee, espresso, caffe normale, cappuccino, machiatto, caffe correto  and so on( a latte, by the way in Italy is hot milk and has no coffee). There seems sot be a coffee drink in Italy for every time of day, need and mood. A caffe correto is drunk the morning after. It has a shot of liquor to set you to rights again..although another explanation was also given— that the Italians get up at the crack of dawn, labour in the fields and by mid morning need a shot of something in their coffee. Whatever it all seems to work. We also were advised there is no sitting with your morning coffe…the north American tradition sitting at the starbucks with your coffee and paper of computer, is NOT the way to drink coffee in Florence. And indeed I have yet to find anything resembling a starbucks type establishment.

Coffee is drunk standing up at a narrow counter, you drink it ( and as you know an espresso does not take long to consume) and you go! Coffee drinking Italian style!!

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Armed with our purchases, coffee to sustain us we departed via mini bus to our Tuscan farm house.

My next blog will take you through our cooking experience.